Kimchi
Napa cabbage is salted, then packed with chilli powder, garlic, ginger and fermented shrimp to sour and fizz over weeks. Eaten young it is crisp and sharp; left longer it turns deep, funky and almost sparkling.
What to judge: Ferment sourness, chilli heat, crunch, funk depth
Where to find it: a market stall with tubs of ferments
Tteokbokki
Cylinders of chewy rice cake are simmered in a thick, sweet-and-hot chilli paste with fish cakes, spring onion and sometimes a boiled egg. The sauce should cling and pull, and the rice cakes must bounce rather than turn to paste.
What to judge: Sauce thickness, rice cake chew, sweetness, fish cake
Where to find it: a snack shop with a shared pot
Samgyeopsal
Thick slabs of pork belly are grilled at the table and cut with scissors, then wrapped in lettuce with garlic, fermented bean paste and a little rice. Judge it by the ratio of fat to lean, the char on the edges and how the wrap holds together.
What to judge: Fat-to-lean, grill char, wrap balance, garlic bite
Where to find it: a grill-table restaurant with vents above
Bibimbap
Rice arrives in a hot stone bowl under a fan of vegetables, beef, an egg and a red chilli paste, and you stir it all together at the table. The point is the crust of scorched rice at the bottom, which crackles under the sauce.
What to judge: Ingredient balance, chilli paste heat, scorched rice, egg richness
Where to find it: a stone-bowl rice house
Korean fried chicken
Pieces are double-fried so the coating shatters, then tossed in a sticky sweet-hot glaze or served plain with salt. The meat stays juicy, and the contrast between brittle crust and steaming interior is the whole test.
What to judge: Crust shatter, glaze stickiness, meat juiciness, salt level
Where to find it: a late-night chicken and beer hall
Sundubu jjigae
A soft tofu stew arrives boiling in a stone pot, its custardy curd breaking into a red, seafood-heavy broth with an egg cracked in at the table. It is eaten with rice, and the heat should build slowly rather than hit all at once.
What to judge: Broth depth, tofu softness, chilli build, seafood freshness
Where to find it: a stew pot house open around the clock