Tacos al pastor
Pork marinated in achiote and chile is stacked on a vertical spit and shaved off crisp at the edges into a warm corn tortilla. A slice of grilled pineapple, chopped onion and cilantro land on top, and the taco is folded once and eaten in two bites.
What to judge: Spit char, achiote depth, pineapple sweetness, tortilla warmth
Where to find it: a taco counter with a rotating spit
Tamales
Masa is whipped with lard until it floats, spread on a soaked corn husk and folded around a filling before steaming. The result is dense, faintly sweet and steaming hot, usually eaten with a spoonful of salsa and a hot drink.
What to judge: Masa lightness, filling amount, husk aroma, salsa heat
Where to find it: a steam-table tamale stall
Esquites
Sweet corn kernels are simmered with an aromatic herb and served in a cup with lime, salt, chile powder and a spoon of thick cream. Each spoonful should be juicy and sharp, and it is eaten with a plastic spoon while walking.
What to judge: Corn sweetness, lime acidity, chile heat, cream richness
Where to find it: a street corn cart
Torta
A crusty roll is split and packed with fried cutlets, ham, avocado, tomato, onion, pickled jalapeños and a smear of beans or mayonnaise. The layers are pressed down so nothing escapes, and it is big enough that two people often split one.
What to judge: Roll crust, filling balance, avocado ripeness, jalapeño acidity
Where to find it: a corner torta shop
Pozole
Hominy corn is simmered until it opens into soft blossoms, then served in a red or green chile broth with pork. Raw onion, shredded cabbage, radish, oregano and lime are added at the table, with crisp fried tortillas on the side for scooping.
What to judge: Broth depth, corn texture, garnish freshness, chile heat
Where to find it: a busy pozole kitchen
Churros with thick chocolate
Ridged dough is piped into hot oil, fried until it darkens, then rolled in sugar and eaten the same minute. The chocolate is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon and is meant for dipping rather than drinking.
What to judge: Churro crunch, oil freshness, sugar coating, chocolate thickness
Where to find it: an old churro cafe