Pad thai
Rice noodles are tossed in a wok with tamarind, fish sauce, palm sugar, egg, dried shrimp and bean sprouts, then finished with crushed peanuts and lime. The balance to judge is sweet against sour against salt, with the noodles still springy rather than clumped.
What to judge: Sweet-sour-salt balance, noodle chew, wok char, peanut crunch
Where to find it: a wok stall on a busy sidewalk
Tom yum goong
A clear, fiery soup of prawns, lemongrass, galangal, lime leaves and chilli is sharpened with lime juice at the very end so the aroma stays bright. It should make you cough once, then reach for another spoonful.
What to judge: Aroma, chilli heat, lime sharpness, prawn sweetness
Where to find it: a family shophouse kitchen
Green curry
A coconut curry the colour of new leaves is built on a fresh chilli paste with basil, small aubergines and chicken or fish, sweet at the front and hot at the back. Eat it with plain rice so the sauce, not the heat, sets the pace.
What to judge: Paste freshness, coconut richness, heat level, basil aroma
Where to find it: a rice-and-curry canteen
Som tam
Unripe papaya is shredded and pounded in a clay mortar with lime, fish sauce, palm sugar, chilli, peanuts and dried shrimp. The pounding matters: the strands should stay crunchy while soaking up a dressing that is sour first, sweet second, hot last.
What to judge: Pound texture, lime sourness, chilli, peanut crunch
Where to find it: a mortar-and-pestle street cart
Satay
Small skewers of marinated pork or chicken are grilled over charcoal and served with a thick peanut sauce, cucumber relish and grilled bread. The char on the meat and the sweetness of the sauce are what you rate, along with whether the peanut tastes freshly ground.
What to judge: Char on the meat, peanut sauce depth, sweetness balance, cucumber crunch
Where to find it: a charcoal grill stall with trays of skewers
Mango sticky rice
Ripe mango is sliced over warm coconut sticky rice, with a spoon of salty-sweet coconut cream poured on top. The rice should be glutinous but loose, and the salt in the cream is what stops the whole thing turning cloying.
What to judge: Mango ripeness, rice texture, coconut salt, sweetness
Where to find it: a market dessert stand