Ceviche
Fresh white fish is cured for a few minutes in lime juice, chilli and salt, then served with red onion, boiled corn and sweet potato. Timing is everything: the edges should look opaque while the middle stays cool and barely touched.
What to judge: Cure time, lime bite, chilli heat, fish freshness
Where to find it: a counter-service cevichería
Tiradito
Thin ribbons of raw fish are dressed in a yellow chilli cream instead of an onion-heavy marinade, so nothing masks the fish. It is softer and sweeter than its chopped cousin, with heat arriving slowly behind a silky texture.
What to judge: Slice thickness, chilli cream balance, sweetness, texture
Where to find it: a seafood counter at a market
Causa limeña
Mashed yellow potato is layered with chilli, lime and a chicken or tuna salad, then pressed into neat cold slabs. Each forkful should be creamy, gently warm with chilli and cut by a sharp citrus edge.
What to judge: Potato texture, citrus snap, chilli warmth, filling seasoning
Where to find it: a family-run lunch counter
Anticuchos
Marinated skewers of beef heart are grilled hard over charcoal and brushed with a garlicky chilli sauce. They arrive smoky and springy, best eaten straight off the grill with boiled corn on the side.
What to judge: Char, tenderness, marinade depth, sauce heat
Where to find it: a charcoal street grill
Ají de gallina
Shredded chicken is folded into a golden chilli sauce thickened with bread, milk and ground nuts. The result is velvety and spoonable rather than fiery, poured over rice or a halved boiled potato.
What to judge: Sauce body, nuttiness, chilli level, chicken tenderness
Where to find it: a neighbourhood dining room
Lomo saltado
Strips of beef hit a very hot wok with onion, tomato and chilli, and soy sauce and vinegar go in at the end. Chips and rice share the plate, so one forkful carries smoke, crunch and starch at once.
What to judge: Wok smoke, beef sear, chip crispness, sauce balance
Where to find it: a busy criollo lunch spot