Cheesesteak
Ribeye is sliced thin and chopped on a hot griddle with onions until the edges crisp, then covered with cheese that melts into the meat. It is loaded into a long roll soft enough to compress, and the order is called by the cheese rather than the toppings.
What to judge: Meat chop, cheese melt, roll softness, onion caramel
Where to find it: a corner griddle shop
Roast pork sandwich with broccoli rabe and sharp provolone
Slow-roasted pork shoulder is sliced and piled into a seeded roll, then doused with its own juices so the bread darkens from the inside. Sharp provolone and wilted broccoli rabe finish it, bitter and garlicky against the sweet meat.
What to judge: Pork juiciness, rabe bitterness, provolone bite, bread soak
Where to find it: a market sandwich stall
Soft pretzel
A knot of lean dough is dipped in an alkaline bath and baked until the outside turns deep mahogany and the inside stays dense and pale. It is sold warm from the rack, speckled with coarse salt and eaten with yellow mustard.
What to judge: Crumb density, salt, crust chew, mustard heat
Where to find it: a sidewalk pretzel cart
Tomato pie
A thick, focaccia-like base is baked plain first, then spread with uncooked crushed tomato and dusted with grated cheese, never mozzarella. It is served at room temperature in square slabs, the crust chewy and the topping sharp and thin.
What to judge: Crust chew, tomato acidity, cheese savoriness, serving temperature
Where to find it: a neighborhood bakery
Water ice
Fruit puree and sugar are frozen into a dense slush that scoops like ice cream but melts to syrup on the tongue. Lemon is the benchmark, sharp and clean, and it is eaten from a paper cup with a flat wooden spoon.
What to judge: Fruit intensity, sweetness, texture grain, chill
Where to find it: a walk-up stand with a takeout window
Hoagie
A long seeded roll is layered with cold cuts, then provolone, then shredded lettuce, tomato and raw onion, and finally oil, vinegar and oregano. The bread is the point: soft crumb, firm crust, and a sandwich built to be eaten on a stoop in the sun.
What to judge: Bread freshness, oil-vinegar ratio, meat quality, onion bite
Where to find it: a deli counter