Takoyaki
A thin batter is poured into half-sphere moulds, a piece of octopus dropped into each, and the balls flipped fast with a pick until they are crisp outside and molten inside. They are eaten straight away, hot enough to burn, under a squiggle of dark sauce and a drift of dried bonito flakes that move in the steam.
What to judge: Crisp shell, molten centre, octopus chew, sauce balance
Where to find it: a street stand with paper boats
Okonomiyaki
Cabbage, batter and whatever you chose are mixed and cooked as a thick savoury pancake on a hot iron plate, then topped with sauce, mayonnaise, bonito flakes and scallion. The middle stays soft while the base crisps against the griddle.
What to judge: Cabbage sweetness, batter thickness, sauce tang, griddle crust
Where to find it: a griddle-table diner
Kushikatsu
Skewers of meat, seafood and vegetables are breaded and deep-fried, then dunked in a shared bowl of thin, tangy sauce that sits on the counter. The crust must stay ruffled and dry, never greasy, and the rule is one dip only.
What to judge: Crust crunch, oil freshness, sauce acidity, filling juiciness
Where to find it: a narrow counter izakaya
Kitsune udon
Soft wheat noodles come in a clear, slightly sweet broth with a large sheet of deep-fried tofu that has soaked up the stock like a sponge. The tofu is the point: sweet, savoury and juicy, cutting the salt of the soup.
What to judge: Broth clarity, noodle softness, tofu sweetness, salt level
Where to find it: a station-side noodle shop
Butaman
A steamed bun the size of a fist is filled with chopped pork, onion and a little sweet soy, so the inside is juicy and the folded top stays tender. Sold hot from stacked steamers, it is eaten on the move, one hand at a time.
What to judge: Bun fluffiness, pork filling, juice, dough sweetness
Where to find it: a steamer cart by a shopping arcade
Battera sushi
Mackerel fillets are cured in vinegar and pressed over a block of vinegared rice with a sheet of kelp, then cut into neat rectangles. The fish is firm and lightly sour, the rice compact, and it travels well in a paper box.
What to judge: Vinegar level, mackerel cure, rice press, kelp aroma
Where to find it: a sushi counter that sells boxed sets