Gumbo
A dark roux is stirred for the better part of an hour until it turns the color of chocolate, then loosened with stock and the trinity of onion, celery and bell pepper. Okra or ground sassafras leaf thickens it further, and rice is spooned into the bowl rather than cooked in the pot.
What to judge: Roux depth, sausage smoke, okra silk, rice texture
Where to find it: a neighborhood kitchen with a daily pot
Jambalaya
Rice, stock, smoked sausage and shellfish go into one pot and come out stained deep rust, every grain separate but heavy with cooking liquid. Long-cooked onion and pepper give it a round sweetness, and the browned bits on the bottom get scraped in for depth.
What to judge: Grain separation, smokiness, tomato tang, heat
Where to find it: a family-run diner
Po'boy
A crusty long roll is hollowed slightly so the filling does not slide out the far end, then dressed with mayonnaise, lettuce, tomato and pickle. Fried shrimp, oysters or hot roast beef go in last, and it should be eaten within minutes, before the crust loses its shatter.
What to judge: Crust shatter, fry grease, dressing balance, filling warmth
Where to find it: a corner sandwich shop with a fryer
Beignets
Squares of yeast dough are fried until they balloon, then buried under a small mountain of powdered sugar that drifts onto your shirt. They arrive hot, crisp at the shell and airy in the middle, and are best eaten standing over the paper bag.
What to judge: Crisp shell, airy center, sugar volume, oil freshness
Where to find it: a courtyard cafe with a takeout window
Muffuletta
A round sesame-topped loaf is split and packed with layers of salami, ham, mortadella and provolone. The real structure comes from a chopped olive salad of green olives, cauliflower, carrot and oregano in oil, which soaks the crumb and keeps everything damp.
What to judge: Olive salad oil, bread soak, meat ratio, oregano
Where to find it: an old grocery counter
Crawfish étouffée
Shelled crawfish tails are smothered in a pale roux with onion, celery and bell pepper, kept wet with stock so the sauce clings instead of pooling. It is ladled over rice, buttery and gently spicy, with the sweetness of the tails left intact.
What to judge: Sauce cling, butter richness, tail sweetness, spice
Where to find it: a seafood shack with plastic tables