Cacio e pepe
Pasta is tossed with sheep's cheese and a great deal of cracked black pepper until starch and cheese turn glossy. There is no cream involved, so the sauce depends entirely on technique and heat.
What to judge: Sauce creaminess, pepper punch, cheese salt, pasta bite
Where to find it: a trattoria table
Carbonara
Cured pork cheek renders until the fat turns glassy, then egg, cheese and pepper are folded through hot pasta off the flame. Done well it is silky rather than scrambled, with a deep savoury edge.
What to judge: Creaminess, pork crispness, pepper, serving temperature
Where to find it: a packed lunch trattoria
Supplì
A ball of rice is filled with meat sauce and mozzarella, crumbed and fried until the coating shatters. Pull it open and the cheese stretches in a long molten thread.
What to judge: Crust, rice texture, filling richness, cheese pull
Where to find it: a fried-food counter
Pizza al taglio
Rectangular slabs bake in long trays, are cut with scissors and sold by weight. The base is airy and crisp underneath, so the toppings stay light: potato, courgette flowers, or tomato and mozzarella.
What to judge: Base crunch, airiness, topping balance, temperature
Where to find it: a takeaway pizza counter
Carciofi alla giudia
Whole artichokes are pressed open, fried in olive oil and finished with salt. The outer leaves turn brittle and nutty while the heart stays tender and sweet.
What to judge: Leaf crispness, heart tenderness, oiliness, salt
Where to find it: a small osteria
Gelato
Dense scoops are churned slowly and kept slightly warmer than ice cream, so the flavour arrives at once. Take two kinds in one cup and judge texture before sweetness.
What to judge: Density, melt, flavour intensity, sweetness
Where to find it: a gelato counter on a back street