Central Texas brisket
A whole packer cut gets little more than salt and coarse black pepper before it smokes low over oak until the bark sets dark and the flat still bends. Slices are cut against the grain, and the fatty end is asked for by name.
What to judge: Bark, smoke ring, fat render, slice tenderness
Where to find it: a wood-fired barbecue joint
Breakfast tacos
Soft flour tortillas are warmed on a griddle and filled with scrambled egg plus one or two things: potato, chorizo, bacon, cheese or beans. Salsa goes on at the counter, usually a bright chile or a creamy green one, and they are eaten with the foil still half on.
What to judge: Tortilla warmth, egg softness, filling ratio, salsa heat
Where to find it: a morning taqueria counter
Queso
Melted cheese is thinned with milk and spiked with diced tomato, onion and green chile, sometimes with seasoned ground beef stirred through. It arrives in a cast-iron bowl with a basket of warm chips that must be sturdy enough to lift a heavy scoop.
What to judge: Cheese pull, chile heat, chip thickness, salt
Where to find it: a casual cafe
Kolache
A soft, faintly sweet yeast bun is wrapped around a filling and baked until the dough is pale and tender. Sausage with cheese is the savory draw, while poppy seed, sweet cheese or fruit jam fill the sweet ones, and a mixed box is the usual order.
What to judge: Dough softness, filling-to-bread ratio, sausage seasoning, sweetness
Where to find it: a roadside bakery
Migas
Day-old tortilla chips are fried with onion, tomato and jalapeño until they soften at the edges, then eggs are scrambled in with them. Cheese melts through the pan, and it is served with refried beans, warm tortillas and salsa.
What to judge: Chip texture, egg curd, jalapeño heat, tortilla freshness
Where to find it: a breakfast diner
Barbacoa tacos
Beef cheek is steamed for hours until it falls into soft strands, then folded into warm corn tortillas with onion, cilantro and a spoonful of the fat it cooked in. A squeeze of lime cuts the richness, so the first taco is gone before the second is wrapped.
What to judge: Meat shred, tortilla warmth, salsa heat, fat balance
Where to find it: a roadside stand with a steaming pot